Dorada

How to buy dorada

Almost all the dorada on a European counter is farmed. It is one of the most widely farmed fish in the Mediterranean, and Greece, Turkey and Spain are the producers you are most likely to be buying from. That is not a warning — farmed gilt-head bream is consistent, cheap and sold at a useful size — but it does explain why the fish is the same all year and why the price barely moves.

Wild dorada exists and is worth buying when you see it. It is usually larger, costs noticeably more, and is sold by species name rather than just “dorada”.

Size

Farmed fish are sold at plate size, roughly 300–600 g whole, which is one generous portion or a light meal for two.

Freshness

Clear, domed eyes rather than sunken and cloudy; bright red gills; flesh that springs back. The gold band between the eyes fades as the fish ages.

Ask for

Dorada in Spain, dorade royale in France, orata in Italy, dourada in Portugal, tsipoura in Greece.

What it tastes like

Mild, faintly sweet, and firmer than sea bass. The flesh is white and holds together on the grill or in a pan instead of flaking apart, which is why it survives whole-fish cooking so well. The fat content is moderate — enough that it does not dry out quickly, not so much that it tastes oily like mackerel or sardine.

The skeleton is the other reason it is a good fish to learn on. It is a simple, large frame, so after cooking the fillets lift off the bone cleanly and there is very little to pick out. If you have been put off whole fish by something bony, this is not that.

The three ways it is usually cooked

Dorada is a whole-fish fish. Almost every traditional preparation cooks it with the skin and bones in, which is what keeps it moist.

A la sal

The Spanish default. Bury the whole gutted fish in coarse salt moistened with a little water and bake at about 200 °C — roughly 25–30 minutes for a 600–800 g fish. Crack the crust at the table and lift the skin away with it. The fish steams in its own moisture and comes out seasoned rather than salty.

A la plancha

Butterflied or whole on a very hot flat griddle, skin down, barely moved. Olive oil, salt, and lemon or a garlic-and-parsley dressing afterwards.

Al horno

Roasted whole on sliced potatoes and onions with white wine, the domestic Sunday version. The potatoes finish in the fish's juices.

When to buy it

Farmed dorada is available all year and does not have a season in any meaningful sense. Wild fish are more seasonal and are at their best in the cooler months, when they carry more fat.