The Provençal way with loup de mer, the fish Italy calls branzino and Spain lubina: a whole sea bass stuffed with fennel fronds and lemon and roasted on a bed of sliced fennel, finished, if you like, by flaming it with pastis at the table.
Serves 2Prep 15 minCook 25 min
Can't find Loup de mer?
Dorada — Both are farmed Mediterranean fish with mild white flesh, similar size, and best cooked whole — sea bass is slightly more delicate, bream slightly sweeter.
Bacalhau — Both are mild white fish suited to similar preparations — sea bass is more delicate and expensive, cod is firmer and more robust.
Huachinango — Monkfish tail is used as a substitute for sea bass in stews and roasts due to its firm texture — monkfish is denser and more robust, sea bass more delicate.
Robalo — Both are prized coastal white fish with mild, firm flesh — snook has a slightly stronger flavor and is found in warmer waters.
Grouper — Both are prized mild white fish well suited to whole cooking and restaurant menus — grouper is firmer and more robust, sea bass more delicate.
Striped bass — Both are Moronidae with firm white flesh, ideal roasted whole or seared skin-on, and they are the closest true equivalents across the Atlantic — but they are different species. Striped bass runs larger and tastes fuller; European sea bass is more delicate and usually sold at plate size.
Ingredients & method
Ingredients
1 whole loup de mer (sea bass, branzino), 700 to 900 g, scaled and gutted
1 large fennel bulb with its fronds
½ lemon, sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to serve
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons pastis such as Pernod or Ricard (optional)
Method
1Heat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F).
2Trim the fennel, keeping the fronds. Slice the bulb thinly, toss it with 2 tablespoons of the oil and a pinch of salt, and spread it in a roasting dish just big enough for the fish.
3Rinse the fish and pat it dry. Make three shallow diagonal cuts on each side, down to the bone. Season it inside and out with salt and pepper.
4Fill the cavity with the fennel fronds and lemon slices. Lay the fish on the fennel and rub it with the rest of the oil.
5Roast 20 to 25 minutes, until the flesh at the thickest point pulls away from the backbone and reads about 55 °C (130 °F).
6If using pastis, warm it in a small pan, pour it over the fish at the table and light it carefully with a long match, standing back. Let the flames die down on their own.
7Lift the top fillet off the bone, pull out the spine, and serve both fillets with the soft fennel, a little more olive oil and the pan juices.
Cook this well
$$ · filleting, skinning, and trimming whole fish
Fillet a whole fish without wasting half of it
Following the bones and contours of whole fish with a narrow, flexible blade.
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Chef's tip On the coast it is grilled over a bed of dried fennel stalks, 8 to 10 minutes a side, and the smoke flavors the fish. Allow 350 to 400 g of whole fish per person. Dorada (sea bream) and besugo take the same method, and branzino from a US market is the same species.
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